magazine of perfumery art
Yana Nersesyan
Aug 8, 2025
In the rarified world of luxury perfumery, Amouage stands as a paragon of artistry, weaving Omani heritage with audacious creativity. The launch of Opus XVI - Timber, the latest masterpiece in its revered Library Collection, reaffirms the house’s mastery in crafting olfactory narratives that transcend time. Introduced in 2025, this woody Eau de Parfum, composed by the dynamic young perfumer Alexis Grugeon, draws inspiration from the towering sequoias of California and the sacred frankincense trees of Oman. Grugeon, a Beauvais-born talent whose color-blindness informs his visceral approach to scent, infuses Timber with a bold yet nuanced energy, channeling his athletic and musical spirit into a fragrance that is both primal and visionary - a meditation on nature’s resilience and humanity’s pursuit of wisdom.
A Bold, Woody Symphony
From the first spritz, Opus XVI - Timber announces itself with a commanding presence. As Amouage’s Chief Creative Officer, Renaud Salmon, describes, it evokes “a bold, monolithic woody impact, like standing in front of a giant sequoia tree.” The opening is a vibrant blend of cypress, cardamom, juniper, pink pepper, and cocoa - an unexpected yet harmonious quintet. Cypress delivers a crisp, evergreen bite, while cardamom and pink pepper infuse a spicy warmth, and cocoa adds a subtle, velvety richness. Juniper’s crisp, gin-like freshness injects a modern edge, creating an opening that is luminous, dynamic, and undeniably bold. It’s a statement of intent, setting the stage for a fragrance that is as much about texture as it is about scent.
A Heart of Spiritual Resonance
As Timber evolves, its heart reveals a captivating interplay of Hojari frankincense, fir balsam, and lavandin. Frankincense, a cornerstone of Amouage’s Omani heritage, brings a smoky, resinous depth that feels almost ceremonial, while fir balsam adds a balsamic clarity, and lavandin - a lavender hybrid - introduces a soft, herbaceous calm. This trio creates a kinetic energy, as if guiding the wearer through a forest alive with whispers of ancient wisdom and contemporary optimism. The heart is both introspective and forward-looking, a testament to Grugeon’s ability to craft compositions that are youthful yet profoundly sophisticated.
A Grounded, Timeless Finish
The drydown of Timber is where its true character emerges, anchoring the fragrance with a blend of palo santo, sandalwood, cedarwood, patchouli, and vanilla bourbon. Palo santo’s sacred, slightly sweet smokiness lends a meditative calm, while sandalwood and cedarwood contribute creamy, robust woody notes. Patchouli adds an earthy depth, and vanilla bourbon softens the composition with a warm, enveloping embrace. This base is not just a foundation but a declaration of enduring strength, embodying, as Amouage notes, “a wisdom that remains firm and is not swayed by the tides of changing fashions.” The result is a lingering trail that is both intimate and commanding, leaving an indelible impression.
Artistry in Every Detail
Presented in Amouage’s iconic khanjar-inspired flacon, Opus XVI - Timber is housed in a cashmere-hued bottle with packaging designed by Belgian artist Louise Mertens. The vertical lines on the packaging symbolize the growth and resilience of trees, reinforcing the fragrance’s narrative. With a 25% oil concentration and a meticulous five-week aging process - three weeks of maceration and two weeks of maturation - Timber reflects Amouage’s commitment to craftsmanship. Each bottle is hand-formulated, blended, macerated, and bottled at the brand’s Muscat facility, ensuring unparalleled quality and authenticity.
A Fragrance for the Modern Connoisseur
What makes Timber stand out in the Library Collection is its ability to balance grandeur with approachability. Its bold woody structure is tempered by bright spices and sacred resins, making it a versatile, unisex scent that appeals to modern sensibilities. While some early testers have noted that longevity may vary by skin type, with a recommended 6-8 hours of wear when applied generously, Timber holds its own as a sophisticated creation for those who value depth and complexity.
Global distribution starting September 1, this fragrance is poised to captivate collectors and enthusiasts alike.
A Timeless Narrative in Scent
Opus XVI - Timber is more than a fragrance; it is a celebration of nature’s resilience and humanity’s quest for wisdom. Alexis Grugeon has crafted a scent that honors the past while embracing the future, weaving bold woods, luminous spices, and sacred resins into a composition that feels both primal and visionary. For those who seek a fragrance that tells a story - one of strength, nuance, and optimism - Timber is a masterful addition to Amouage’s storied legacy, a testament to the enduring power of scent to connect us to the world around us.