magazine of perfumery art
by Nose Anatomy
Oct 9, 2025
From luminous softness to shadowed sensuality - two interpretations of vanilla that redefine elegance through contrast and depth
Matière Première, the French house founded by Aurélien Guichard, continues to master the art of purity and texture in perfumery. With Vanilla Powder, one of its most admired creations, the brand has entered a new chapter.
Originally released in a transparent bottle, Vanilla Powder represented the light - delicate, powdery, and ethereal. Now, with its new dark edition, the fragrance reveals its second face: deeper, warmer, and irresistibly magnetic.
Two versions, one soul - a single raw material elevated through emotion, contrast, and refinement.
Vanilla Powder - The Original Light Edition
A study in purity, this fragrance transformed vanilla into an experience of air and softness.
Olfactory Pyramid
Head Notes: Coconut Powder, Heliotrope
Heart Notes: Madagascar Vanilla Absolute
Base Notes: Palo Santo, White Musks, Lactones
Here, vanilla is radiant and creamy, wrapped in white musks and powdered light. Heliotrope and coconut lend a gentle sweetness, while Palo Santo brings structure and calm. The result is a transparent gourmand, comforting yet sophisticated - a whisper of warmth that lingers like sunlight on skin.
Vanilla Powder - The New Dark Edition
The evolution of Vanilla Powder introduces a darker, more enigmatic mood. Still centered around the noble Madagascar vanilla absolute, this new version amplifies its sensual depth and transforms the fragrance into a richer, more textured expression.
Olfactory Pyramid
Head Notes: Coconut Powder, Tonka Accents
Heart Notes: Madagascar Vanilla Absolute
Base Notes: Palo Santo, Vanilla Resin, White Musks
This edition feels magnetic - a vanilla that no longer hides behind innocence. Warm, woody undertones add sophistication, while soft powder and resin reveal the intimate beauty of contrast. It’s the same heart, but viewed at midnight instead of dawn. The dark flacon mirrors its spirit: modern, elegant, and quietly seductive.
Together, the two versions of Vanilla Powder form a complete portrait of modern
vanilla - luminous and shadowed, gentle and powerful.
They embody Matière Première’s vision: one raw material, one idea, infinite emotion.
The result is not a reformulation, but a continuation - the evolution of an icon through depth, contrast, and artistic restraint.
The fragrances can now be discovered at Isolee Petit Boutique, Carrer de Provença, 247, L’Eixample, 08008 Barcelona - with special thanks to Ximena and Muna, whose introduction to this new edition made this encounter possible.